Two National Ice Parks

Two National Ice Parks
Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska (not to be confused with Glacier National Park in Montana) gave birth to icebergs before my eyes this past July. Mt. Shasta in California, with its own rivers of ice, called me to its summit 2012. I now visit Glacier National Park, and hope to bring you vicariously to its back country.

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Monday, August 22, 2016

Klondike Goldrush

Approaching Skagway, Alaska

Now that my father is gone, I come to Alaska and rediscover him, following rumors of gold.  The Great Depression left him and his parents penniless.  So he traveled to the American River in California where gold was still waiting to be panned and sluiced from gravel.  I remember his dinnertime stories of bears and horsemeat and selling just enough gold to send some money home. 








But his stories don’t match those of that hoard of accountants, school teachers, and draftsmen who sailed into Skagway Bay, Alaska, in the 1890’s.  Those ill-prepared gold diggers tramped over the mountain to Bennett in the Yukon, waited out frigid winter, then made rafts and floated into Dawson rivers, filled, in their dreams, with gold. They had missed the California gold rush of 1849, and they would not miss the Klondike Bonanza.  







Nearing Skagway, Alaska

Our ship unloaded in Skagway, where the prospectors began their arduous journey, and with some effort, I hiked close to where they struggled over the mountain.  I didn’t exactly retrace the steps of those intrepid gold seekers of the Klondike Stampede, but the hike to Lower Dewey Lake out of Skagway gave a feel for the mountain they crossed.













Looking down on Skagway, I imagined a town of  20,000 people in 1897.  Today there are 12,000 including cruise ship passengers.










On the way up, I saw a familiar backpacker’s scene—food hanging in a tree, out of bears’ reach.  And soon their camp appeared beside a lake.













A vein of Quartz in which gold sometimes precipitates from the liquid magma cooling slowly millions of years ago.  This vein, high on a mountain, is still intact.  But the Klondike Stampeders were looking for river gravel that contains eroded chunks of this rock.











It might have been in gravel like this on the shore of Dewey Lake that they panned and sluiced.  These gravels are like a bond between glacier and river—father and daughter.









Frederick Trump






Few of them sent any money home, as my father did, and most of them lost what they came with.  But a few entrepreneurs got rich off the gold diggers, by mining the miners.













In 1898, Frederick Trump opened the Arctic Restaurant and Hotel in Bennett, which offered food and lodging in a sea of tents where prospectors were holed up for the winter.  In 1900, he established the White Horse Restaurant and Inn and prepared 3,000 meals per day plus gambling and other “entertainments.”












Our current republican candidate for president is the grandson of Frederick Trump.  

8 comments:

  1. What a beautiful line, "These gravels are like a bond between glacier and river—father and daughter. " As the glacier gives birth to the river, and the connection of father and daughter carries the beautiful history you have offered about your father and his quest for gold.

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    1. Thanks Susan, what a nice and insightful comment.

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  2. A very interesting and poetic post that spans time and space from earth to sky past and present! What a personal tour of remembrance and discovery

    The Rush

    from the misty past
    gold dust collects
    from the dark
    the sparkle
    in my father's eye

    the eerie count
    of who has left
    golden egg
    has it cracked
    in the empty nest

    what we inherit
    the trudge in deep snow
    over mountains
    carrying the heavy
    dark of dreams

    we try to return
    like moths to light
    to those places
    where it all began
    on the uphill slant

    often we slide
    back down become our own
    avalanche
    the motion and silence
    of what is forgotten

    standing on the bluff
    the emptied town of still
    a few lights
    in the paintbox
    of sunset and sunrise





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    1. That's a beautiful rendering of my and my father's experiences - the sparkle of gold dust collecting after all those avalanche years, a golden egg of memory carried downstream to me to be processed, incongruently, on a luxury cruise ship. You have captured this and other essences. Thanks for adding poetry to experience.

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  3. Truest is the gold which you have mined from your memories.

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    1. It's hard to see gold among all the other kinds of gravel, Junnie, but really that's all it is. Somehow we assign it great importence. I wonder why.

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    2. Memory has it's license to create gold from gravel ~ that's one of the reasons to be a poet
      Plucking the gold 'from' the gravel is an art in itself

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    3. "Create gold!" The old alchemy quest. Based on the ancient idea that gold is good. Oh it has uses, but we attach mystic properties to yellow river stones, tumbling about like feldspar, mica, and the "fool's" iron pyrite. I wonder how it won the election.

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